Venice, known for its timeless allure, boasts ancient palazzos mirrored in serene canals, where water dictates daily life. Despite this charm, the city grapples with mass tourism, with over 25 million visitors annually, many being daytrippers flocking to popular spots like Piazza San Marco for quick visits and gondola rides.
Away from the bustling square, a serene scene unfolds as female rowers skillfully maneuver a batèla a coa de gambero, a traditional Venetian boat used for transportation and goods, through quiet canals. Unlike the iconic gondola, the batela serves as a sturdy workhorse due to its flat bottom, ideal for navigating Venice’s shallow waters.
Elena Almansi, a Venetian native and accomplished rower, is a driving force behind Row Venice, a non-profit organization dedicated to preserving the art of Venetian rowing. Founded nearly two decades ago, the group imparts lessons in voga alla veneta, the traditional rowing style where rowers stand and propel the boat with a single oar.
The association, which boasts about two dozen members, includes competitive regatanti and recreational rowers, all trained in the intricate Venetian rowing technique. Despite the historically male-dominated rowing culture in Venice, these women have championed for equality and recognition in the sport, advocating for fair prize money distribution and breaking gender barriers.
Viola Ghigi, a young member of Row Venice, represents a new generation upholding the rowing tradition. Raised in a family deeply rooted in rowing, Ghigi races alongside her mother and other members in local regattas, embodying the essence of Venetian rowing culture passed down through generations.
In a city faced with a declining local population and surging tourist numbers, Row Venice stands as a beacon of tradition and resilience, with its members committed to preserving the heritage of Venetian rowing against the backdrop of a changing Venice. These women, not just rowers but torchbearers of a fading legacy, strive to keep the ancient art of rowing alive in a city constantly in flux.